MendelMax build: X and Z axes
I titled the last post in the build guide “MendelMax Build: frame part 1” because I anticipated there’d be a part 2; turns out the build was faster than I thought. Let’s move on to the X and Z axes.
First, assemble your X-carriage. This should be a matter of attaching whatever manner of bushing or bearing will make contact with the X smooth rods. I’m using a variant of Josef Prusa’s X-carriage I made that better supports the Igus bushings I sell:

Next, stick two of your smooth rods into one of the X-ends, either the idler holder or the motor holder, it doesn’t really matter which one. You want to be careful when inserting the rods if you’re using push-fit X-ends, as you can easily crack the whole thing if you jam the rods in too hard. You may have to ream the channel a bit or support the top and bottom when you insert the rods. Easy does it.
I’m using my X-ends that support leadscrews and Igus bushings.

Put the X-carriage onto the rods before you cap them off with the other X-end. Make sure the carriage’s two rounded protrusions are on the same side as the motor mount and the hole for the idler.
It should all look like this:

Now you need to attach to the MendelMax frame the smooth rods that these X-ends will ride on. First, attach one of the rods to the motor mount so it hangs down to the bottom:

Note: those Z-rod clamps are the versions that are on the Thingiverse page; you may have newer ones that look more like this:

Now attach the lower holder and align it with the rod that’s hanging down:

Not quite there yet! You can screw the clamp right into the holes on the lower holder; no M5 nut is necessary, since this isn’t a high-stress part.
Once you’ve got the lower rod holder aligned, move the rod up a bit. Then put the completed X-gantry you assembled earlier on the frame beneath the bottom end of the rod, and line up one of the X-end’s bearing column with the rods:

Lower the rod down into the X-end’s bearing columns and tighten the clamp on the lower holder. Then do the same thing on the other side. You should have an attached X-gantry that look like this:

Make sure the gantry slides up and down smoothly, but be very careful when lifting it, as you can easily crack the X-ends’ bearing tubes at their bases. This is even more true if you happen to be using Prusa 2 LM8UU X-ends, but it’s a risk for any printed X-end. The safest way to lift the gantry is using one hand under the X rods, as close as possible to the centerline of the machine. Go slowly and if you feel resistance, let it return to the bottom while you make adjustments.
The gantry should be able to return to the bottom by gravity alone when you raise and lower it with your hand under the center of the X rods. If it binds at all, you may need to slightly adjust the position of the X-ends on their rods or move the lower Z rod holders a few millimeters to the left or right to straighten out the Z rods.
Once the gantry slides up and down smoothly, it’s time to insert the leadscrews! First thread a leadscrew into the X-ends. Make sure the top end is a little beneath the hole in the motor mount.

Attach one of your aluminum couplers to a motor. Tighten the lower set screws to join it to the motor shaft, but make sure that the upper set screws are loosened enough not to obstruct the leadscrew when you insert it.

…and then put the motor onto the mount, letting the leadscrew enter the coupler’s larger hole:

Tighten the remaining set screws to attach the leadscrew to the coupler. Keep in mind here that doing so will slightly deform the metal of the leadscrews where the set screws dig in. DO NOT attach a leadscrew to the clamp at one end, and then change your mind and clamp it at the other end instead, because the first end will have deformed threads and it won’t go through its nut. You don’t want that.
Finally, screw the motor to its mount. Even though there are four holes, you really only need to attach the motor with two screws.
Now do all the same things for the other leadscrew and motor. Once the leadscrews are attached and the motors fastened to their holders, rotate both leadscrew shafts to bring the X-gantry up towards the top of the frame. This will take it up out of the way so you can later assemble the Y axis easily. You should wind up with this:

Congratulations! It’s getting closer… now time for the Y-table!
Categorised as: 3D printing, Build guide, Hardware, MendelMax
Looking good.
Very nice write up.
Nice write-up! I’ve just finished the frame of my MendelMax-based reprap. It’s an awesome machine! Much easier to assemble than the threaded rod designs. What electronics will you be using? I think I’m going to go with RAMPS unless I can find an R2C2 supplier in America.
I’m using RAMPS, myself. I got it pre-assembled from Ultimachine. I started with a Sanguinololu, but it’s a bit too limited as it doesn’t have enough memory for PID temperature control in marlin or enough MOSFETS for a gcode-controllable-fan. I wrote some more details at http://techpaladin.com/2011/12/01/time-to-add-another-printer-to-the-mix/
Is R2C2 a working electronics solution? From the videos it looks mightly impressive, but I haven’t heard a lot of reports of it “in the wild”, so to speak.
I’ve yet to see one function aside from reports on the internet (R2C2). The shipping was insane… something like 85 euro to America, so i broke down today and ordered the RAMPS 1.4 from Ultimachine. I’m using the x-axis that comes with the lulzbot plastic kit (their own design with the supaflat carriage). It’s coming together well and should be done within a week or two!
I can’t wait to see your next installment. It’s been a great help!
Got my mendelmax parts the other day and everything is going together smoothly until I got to the y-axis bottom mounts. I’m getting my rods cut at attached and while the top of the y-axis has trap nuts for the rod clamp, the bottom does not. I’m curious if I should run my m5 tap into the holes to cut some threads into the abs, or if I should just screw right in with a bolt.
You can just screw it right in. That’s not a high-stress part, so you should be fine. I’ve edited the page to reflect this.
Are you getting any Z backlash with those leadscrews and nuts? The Z springs seem to be pretty highly recommended but I don’t know if that’s just compensating for horrible threaded rods.
I think they’re compensating for the horrible threaded rods.
I don’t get any backlash with my Misumi leadscrews and nuts, but to be fair, I don’t get any backlash with my Prusa which still uses threaded rods and no Z-springs. The Z-axis just doesn’t move very fast, so I don’t really think that backlash is going to be a big problem one way or another.
How do the leadscrews attach at the bottom? Is there a bearing down there? If so, how is it attached to the bearing?
They don’t actually need to connect to anything on the bottom; they just hang free.
I’m having trouble getting the X carriage to slide as smoothly as suggested. I’m using the self-aligning bushings from the checklist and even without anything mounted, the bushing itself didn’t slide smoothly on the rod without lubrication. I cleaned the rods off as much as possible and that helped a little but still, not smooth enough to where the carriage will fall from gravity alone. It takes a little push to move it up and down. Lubrication helped as well.
I’m thinking I just got sent poor quality rods from McMaster. Any advice?
Unfortunately, that sound about right. I don’t recommend McMaster drill rod for the brass bushings. It’s just too rough. I’ve got some of that kind of rod working great with LM8UUs on one of my machines, but the bushings really want precision linear motion rods, like the kind you can get from vxb.com.
This is excellent tutorial. I am about to build a MM 1.5. Now ordering parts from Misumi. There is one thing that I am not clear about: the length of the smooth rods. I got this spec:
2x M8 Precision Linear Shafting – 445mm (X)
2x M10 Precision Linear Shafting – 405mm (Z)
Is this the correct ones (in original MM1.5 size)?